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Ancient Tuesday: Castel Sant'Angelo or the Mausoleum of Hadrian
The Castel Sant'Angelo, or Mausoleum of Hadrian, is a large, circular structure on the Tiber River, visible from St. Peter's Basilica. Originally Hadrian's mausoleum, its solid construction made it an ideal papal fortress, connected by a visible passage to St. Peter's. It also served as a prison, holding Caterina Sforza and the fictional Mario Cavaradossi from Puccini's Tosca.

Rick Bessey
4 days ago1 min read


Masterpiece Monday: The Brancacci Chapel
The Brancacci Chapel is a magnificent place to understand Renaissance painting, where Michelangelo himself studied. Revolutionary artist Masaccio created early Renaissance art here, sharing work with Masolino, whose International/Gothic style provides immediate juxtaposition. The frescoes, focusing on St. Peter's life, include "The Tribute Money." Located in Florence's Oltrarno, it's a must-see if open.

Rick Bessey
5 days ago1 min read


Pilgrimage Sunday: St. Paul Outside the Walls
The Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls (San Paolo fuori le Mura) is the final resting place of St. Paul. The earliest structure over his burial site was created under Constantine in 324, and the church was rebuilt multiple times, including after a devastating fire in 1823. Decorations of Paul's life are throughout this, Rome's second largest church.

Rick Bessey
6 days ago1 min read


Saints and Relics Saturday: St. Dominic and the Devil's Stone in Santa Sabina
On Rome's Aventine Hill, the church of Santa Sabina holds a large rock. Legend says the Devil, angered by St. Dominic's prayers, threw it at him, missing. The rock remains, with holes from the Devil's talons visible. The church grounds also feature a beautiful park with views from the parapet.

Rick Bessey
Jul 261 min read


Churches Friday: Santa Maria degli Angeli
Michelangelo repurposed the ruins of Emperor Diocletian's baths into the church Santa Maria degli Angeli, where the massive scale of ancient structures is layered into a beautiful basilica. The Termini train station, named for "baths," is across the street, and Piazza della Repubblica, a common filming scene, is directly outside.

Rick Bessey
Jul 251 min read


Curiosa Thursday: Palazzo Zuccari
Just down the street from the Spanish Steps is this fabulous doorway of the Palazzo Zuccari. Art historians refer to the period immediately after the High Renaissance as the Mannerist period (1520-1600). The artwork of this period is often referred to as surprising, peculiar, or unexpected, and the doorway certainly embodies that. Today the building houses a library for art historians.

Rick Bessey
Jul 241 min read


Walkabout Wednesday: Spanish Steps
The Spanish Steps in Rome lead from Piazza di Spagna, home to a Bernini fountain and the Spanish Embassy, to the Trinità dei Monti church with its Roman obelisk. This area, once home to poet Yeats, offers city views and upscale shopping. Visitors should note that sitting on the steps is prohibited.

Rick Bessey
Jul 231 min read


Ancient Tuesday: Baths of Caracalla
A visit to the Baths of Caracalla, though in ruins, reveals the immense scale of Roman construction and its core brickwork. Constructed in the early 200s AD, these baths were used until 500 AD and served as a place for bathing, exercise, relaxation, and possibly included a library. The site is easily accessible by taxi or bus.

Rick Bessey
Jul 221 min read


Masterpiece Monday: Last Supper of Andrea del Castagno
You will find this gem of a masterpiece near the church of San Marco in Florence. The fresco of the Last Supper in the convent of Sant'Apollonia, completed in 1447, reflects the genius of Renaissance art. This large work, nearly 15 feet high and 32 feet wide, showcases linear perspective. The artist's humor is evident in details like St. Bartholomew's reaction to St. Andrew's knife. Admission is free, and the location is convenient.

Rick Bessey
Jul 211 min read


Pilgrimage Sunday: Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore holds sway on the Esquiline Hill, a grand building set apart by its piazza and hill. Legend says Pope Liberius received a vision in 358 to build a church where snow falls, and a miracle snow did take place, leading to this church dedicated to Mary. Inside the church is the manger of Christ. The piazza also has a large taxi
St. Lawrence (Lorenzo, in Italian), was a deacon of the church who was killed on August 10, 258 in the Roman persecutions under the

Rick Bessey
Jul 201 min read


Saints and Relics Saturday: St. Valentine, Santa Maria in Cosmedin
The head of St. Valentine rests in the church, Santa Maria in Cosmedin, with his name visible on the skull. The church is better known for the Bocca della Verità, or "Mouth of Truth," a manhole-sized marble face made famous in the movie Roman Holiday. Legend says it bites the hand of anyone who tells a lie.

Rick Bessey
Jul 191 min read


Churches Friday: Santa Maria in Aracoeli
The church Santa Maria in Aracoeli on the Capitoline Hill has a fascinating foundation story. Emperor Augustus had a vision of a woman presenting a child on an altar, leading him to build the "altar of heaven," or "ara coeli," which names the church. Its nave columns are from ancient ruins, one noted "from the chambers of Augustus." The 124 marble steps were added after the Black Death of 1348.

Rick Bessey
Jul 181 min read


Curiosa Thursday: EUR - Mussolini's Rome
The EUR district takes visitors outside central Rome to a virtually deserted area. Planned by Mussolini in the 1930s for the 1942 World's Fair, its architecture reflects the period, making one feel stepped back in time. It is a place to immerse oneself in stark WWII architecture.

Rick Bessey
Jul 171 min read


Walkabout Wednesday: The Capitoline Hill
The Capitoline Hill, ancient Rome's most sacred space with the Temple of Jupiter, is now a beautiful piazza designed by Michelangelo, housing the Capitoline Museums. Its approach features a gentle staircase and statues of Castor and Pollux. In the center is a reproduction of Marcus Aurelius's equestrian statue. Behind the buildings are outstanding views of the Roman Forum.

Rick Bessey
Jul 161 min read


Fritti and San Miniato
The morning routine is one of the simplest joys about being in Italy. Nearly every block contains a cafe, known as a bar, in Italian,...

Rick Bessey
Jul 158 min read


Masterpiece Monday: Bernini's Apollo and Daphne
Bernini, a master of Baroque sculpture, has a presence felt throughout Rome. The Borghese Gallery holds his Apollo and Daphne, a myth codified by Ovid, depicting Daphne's transformation into a laurel tree while pursued by Apollo. This work, meant to be seen from all angles, shows various stages of transformation.
This work was meant to be seen from all angles, and as you walk around the work, you see the vari

Rick Bessey
Jul 141 min read


Pilgrimage Sunday: San Sebastiano fuori le Mura
The Basilica of San Sebastiano fuori le Mura sits on the Ancient Appian Way, Rome's major north-south road. Saint Sebastian, an early martyr, was killed by being tied to a tree and shot with arrows, a popular image in art. This church, one of Rome's oldest, was established under Constantine but heavily renovated. Its location near the catacombs and Appian Way makes it a worthwhile stop outside the city.

Rick Bessey
Jul 131 min read


Saints and Relics Saturday: The Chains of St. Peter
The Church of Saint Peter in Chains contains, as the name suggests, the chains that held Peter when he was imprisoned in Rome. They are prominently displayed under the altar.
The story about the chains can be a bit confusing. At its core, the chain that held St. Peter was divided at some point in its history, with half going to Jerusalem. It was returned to Rome, however, and upon being placed with the other half, to two pieces joined to become one.

Rick Bessey
Jul 121 min read


Churches Friday: San Lorenzo, Florence
The Basilica of San Lorenzo in Florence is the best representation of the hallmarks of Renaissance architecture, and, as such, makes it the most beautiful church in all of Italy.
When you enter the church you immediately understand what Renaissance architecture is. The church was designed by the architect Brunelleschi, who traveled to Rome to study the ancient structures. He then brought that style back to Florence.

Rick Bessey
Jul 111 min read


Curiosa Thursday: Pope Joan
Pope Joan is a female Pope who is said to have served from 855-857, though her story did not gain prominence until the late 1200s, and,...

Rick Bessey
Jul 101 min read
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