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Santi Cosma e Damiano - Thursday, Third Week of Lent

A view of the modern entrance situated at the edge of the Roman Forum, featuring a simple white stone archway labeled 'BASILICA S.  COSMA E DAMIANO'.  To the left, an ancient, weathered brick wall—part of the original Temple of Peace complex—stands in stark contrast to the clean lines of the later entrance.  A contemporary bronze statue with arms raised skyward stands guard at the ramp, while a modest bell tower rises in the background, anchoring the church's presence amidst the layers of 20th-century roadwork and ancient ruins.

The church of Santi Cosma e Damiano sits right on the edge of the Roman Forum and is dedicated to two physician saints who were martyred under Diocletian in the year 287, when they were beheaded for their faith. They became tremendously well known, and, because of their work as doctors (medici), the Medici family in Florence embraced them.


Perhaps the most curious aspect of the church is the location in the Roman forum. At one point visitors were able to enter the basilica from an entrance outside the forum, yet, there was also an entrance within the forum. The history of the building accounts for this division.



An elevated view of the circular Temple of Romulus in the Roman Forum, featuring its original 4th-century bronze doors and flanking porphyry columns.  The brick structure serves as the vestibule to the 6th-century Basilica of Santi Cosma e Damiano, which rises behind it.  The surrounding archaeological site is juxtaposed against the layered rooftops and towers of modern Rome in the background.

As the modern visitor to Rome knows, there is a magnificent, wide road that connects the Piazza Venezia and the Altar of the Fatherland (the "Wedding Cake") with the Colosseum. This was a visual way for Mussolini to connect his center of Rome (located directly on the Piazza Venezia) with the ancient, glorious past of Rome. This has created a somewhat artificial division of the ancient structures on either side of the forum. With that said, however, the concept is not so different than what the Roman Emperors did for what were their structures if not propaganda. The point of all this is to say that the perceived separation of this building from those across the street is a result of 20th century road work.


This particular structure was a part of the Temple of Peace complex, constructed under Vespasian in roughly 70 AD, and the wall that held the Forma Urbis Rome - the marble map of the entire city - still exists and is visible just to the left of the entrance to the church. The church itself dates from the early part of the 500s and part of the mission of the church may have been to continue to offer medical services in that area of Rome, which accounts for the association with the two doctor martyrs.



A view of the sanctuary showing the layers of 6th-century mosaics that draw the viewer forward. The upper triumphal arch features the Lamb of God on a jeweled throne surrounded by seven candlesticks and angels, while the lower apse depicts Christ descending in judgment upon the blue clouds of the River Jordan. Christ is flanked by Peter and Paul, who present the twin physician martyrs, Cosmas and Damian, while the Pope stands at the far left offering a model of the church.

The interior of the church presents us with a single nave; there are no side aisles. The visitor is drawn to the apse by the magnificent mosaics on the arch and the apse beyond. In the apse Christ appears coming to earth in judgement. He approaches on the River Jordan in the midst of a beautiful blue sky. Peter and Paul flank him presenting the twin martyrs, Cosma and Damian. The Pope stands by, presenting a model of the church he rebuilt.


Take the time when visiting the forum to stop by and view this interesting church and take in the mosaics. I should note, that, when in the forum you will find the so-called Temple of Romulus, a structure connected to this building. There was a time in the history of the church that these two were connected, but they have since been separated. The church entrance is on the Via dei Fora Imperiali, and the Temple now contains exhibitions of artifacts.


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P.S. Ever get confused by the inscriptions you see in Rome?


I created a free, 1-page "5-Minute Decoder" that unlocks 90% of the phrases you'll see on monuments. It's the perfect tool to go from a tourist to an insider.



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