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Santa Pudenziana - Tuesday, Third Week of Lent


A wide, detailed view of the 4th-century mosaic in the apse of Santa Pudenziana, dated to 390. Christ sits enthroned at the center, holding an open book and surrounded by the apostles, who look around naturally rather than staring forward. Behind the figures is a representation of the city of Jerusalem, complete with tiered classical buildings. To the left and right, two women, traditionally identified as the sisters Pudenziana and Praxides, hold crowns above the apostles Peter and Paul. The overall style is more reminiscent of a naturalistic painting than a traditional Byzantine church mosaic.

On Tuesday, the Third Week of Lent we turn to one of the oldest churches in Rome, constructed between 140 and 155 AD. Santa Pudenziana is dedicated to one of the daughters of Pudens, a Roman who was converted and subsequently baptized by Peter in Rome. (We will visit the church dedicated to Praxides, the other daughter of Pudens, sister to Pudenzia, at a later date.) Pudens is mentioned by Paul at the close of his letter to Timothy, "Do your best to get here before winter. Eubulus greets you, and so do Pudens, Linus, Claudia and all the brothers and sisters." (NIV) Typical of the oldest churches in Rome, this is a titulus, or "titular" church, meaning it was built over the remains of a Roman home where Christian meetings and worship took place. Archaeology shows that the church also incorporated parts of a Roman bath too.


An exterior photograph of the Basilica of San Clemente in Rome, viewed from across a street on a sunny day. The image features a tall, slender Romanesque brick campanile (bell tower) on the left, with tiered arched openings. The central part of the building shows a high, unadorned brick facade, which the user describes as very plain and easy to miss from the outside. At the ground level, an arcaded portico (narthex) supported by columns serves as the street entrance. A blue sky is visible above, and green bushes line the foreground.

As you approach the church you will notice, as we have seen many times already, that the church is below the level of the street. Often times it is because the level of Rome has, in effect, risen. In this case the street out front was deliberately raised by Pope Sixtus V to provide easier access to nearby Santa Maria Maggiore.


The church is a basilica style church with two side aisles. The overall decor seems of a much later date, and has been kept up throughout the years, both in terms of the structure as well as the decoration. It is the apse with it's magnificent mosaic, and the octagonal dome that draw the viewer forward.


An interior view looking down the main nave of Santa Pudenziana. The photo captures the colonnade leading the eye to the sanctuary and the central focus: the magnificent 4th-century apse mosaic, which is the oldest in Rome. The ornate blue and gold coffered ceiling from a later renovation contrasts with the ancient artwork below.

The mosaic apse, created in 390, is the oldest mosaic apse in the city, which is actually quite remarkable. After viewing so many golden byzantine mosaics where the figures gaze straight at the spectator, it is surprising to see an older, more natural mosaic. Christ sits enthroned in the center and the apostles surrounding him look around either at each other, at others outside of the frame, or at Christ Himself. He holds a book that reads in Latin, "Dominus Conservator Ecclesiae Pudentiana", which means, Lord Preserver of the Church of Pudentiana. The setting is not a mystical golden non-descript background, but the city of Jerusalem. Overall, this mosaic appears to be in the style of a painting, rather than what is traditionally associated with a church.



An interior view looking upward into the elegantly decorated octagonal dome of a side chapel within Santa Pudenziana. The view showcases intricate Baroque-style fresco paintings and gilded stucco work, highlighting the later decorations that overlay the ancient foundations of this 2nd-century 'titulus' church.

The back of the church juts out into the street behind, and contains a chapel to Mary. Visible in the back also, is the octagonal dome.


A street-level view looking down Via Cesare Balbo, showing how the back of the basilica juts out and encroaches significantly into the narrow roadway. The ancient brick structure of the apse and the chapel dedicated to Mary is clearly visible, topped by the church's distinctive octagonal dome rising above the roofline. This perspective highlights the tightly packed "layers" of the city where the ancient church structure directly meets the modern pavement.

This church is quite a gem, located in the heart of Rome. It is a very active church and weddings take place there often. Located very close to the train station, and, in particular, exceptionally close to Santa Maria Maggiore, a diversion may be well worth it if you are in the neighborhood!


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P.S. Ever get confused by the inscriptions you see in Rome?


I created a free, 1-page "5-Minute Decoder" that unlocks 90% of the phrases you'll see on monuments. It's the perfect tool to go from a tourist to an insider.



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