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Santi Marcellino e Pietro - Saturday, Second Week of Lent
The original church devoted to the saints Marcellinus and Pietrus was likely consecrated in the late 4th century. The pope often credited with the building of the original structure was Pope Siricius, who died in 399. The present day church, constructed in 1751, although located in the same area, sadly does not even appear to bear the same footprint as the original church. The square church reflects the Rococo style, with it's muted colors and neo-classical style. The relic

Rick Bessey
Mar 71 min read


San Vitale - Friday, Second Week of Lent
The most striking thing to a modern visitor to San Vitale is not the architecture, or the art, or the history. What stands out the most is the setting. Located on one of the busiest streets of Rome, nestled between a gleaming white exhibition hall and a fire station, many feet below the level of the street, sits the Basilica of San Vitale, constructed in the year 400. The church itself is unornamented plain brick. In order to enter the church you must descend more than thi

Rick Bessey
Mar 63 min read


Santa Maria in Trastevere - Thursday, Second Week of Lent
One of the oldest and most beautiful churches in Rome, Santa Maria in Trastevere is also located in one of the most delightful areas of the city. Away from the crows of tourists that surround the Vatican or the Colosseum (but, to be clear, no less crowded), just on the other side of the Tiber river, you will find the area called Trastevere. The crowds here are more local and more interested in relaxing and enjoying their time in the city without any schedule or agenda.

Rick Bessey
Mar 53 min read


Santa Cecilia - Wednesday, Second Week of Lent
The story of Saint Cecilia, from her conversion to where she is today, is one of the most touching in terms of her as an individual and most interesting for the development of churches in Rome. The story of Cecilia begins in the reign of the emperor, Septimius Severus (AD 193-211). Cecilia was a young woman of faith who was engaged to a Roman, Valerius. On their wedding day she converted him to Christianity, and he, subsequently, converted his brothers.

Rick Bessey
Mar 43 min read


Santa Balbina - Tuesday, Second Week of Lent
The church of Santa Balbina is a quiet, but relatively central section of Rome. Located within view of the Baths of Caracalla this church is relatively secluded, and surrounded by the unadorned brick ruins of ancient Rome. Simple in design and ornamentation, the story of Santa Balbina is a fascinating story and touches on a church we have visited previously in this Lenten church journey.

Rick Bessey
Mar 32 min read


San Clemente - Monday, Second Week of Lent
Within an easy walk of the Colosseum you will find the Basilica of San Clemente, a basilica which embodies all the layers of history in Rome. If you do not know what you are looking for, it would be easy to miss this fascinating church. The entrance to the church is through a portico that is walled on the outside, and, from the outside, it is a very plain wall at that. But this building has literal layers of history: The lower level consists of the remains of buildings fro

Rick Bessey
Mar 22 min read


Santa Maria in Domnica - Sunday, Second Week of Lent
Today's church is a lovely church just south of the Colosseum. There are two items of note that are directly related to the evolution of the church. Pope Paschal I held the papacy from 817-824, just a few short years. In that time, however, he is credited for several building projects in Rome, including Santa Maria in Domnica. His image appears in the mosaic within the basilica, and, moreover, we will have an opportunity to meet with Pope Pascal I again.

Rick Bessey
Mar 13 min read


Saint Peter's Basilica - Saturday, First Week of Lent
St. Peter's Basilica, the resting place of the Apostle Peter and the center of Catholicism, stands on the site where Constantine built the original 4th-century church. This first post explores the historical and spiritual significance of "Old St. Peter's," the typical basilica style of the early church, and the enduring tradition identifying this specific location as the site of Peter's martyrdom and burial.

Rick Bessey
Feb 283 min read


Basilica dei Santi Apostoli - Friday, First Week of Lent
The Basilica Santi Apostoli, located centrally in Rome near Piazza Venezia, holds the relics of St. Philip and St. James the Lesser, rediscovered in the late 1800s. Originally built in the mid-300s, the current structure is a result of multiple rebuilds, including an 1800s renovation. It was also Michelangelo's initial burial site before his body was moved to Florence.

Rick Bessey
Feb 272 min read


San Lorenzo in Panisperna - Thursday, First Week of Lent
If you are going through the Monti area in Rome, headed to Santa Maria Maggiore, you will likely walk down Via Panisperna. In doing so you will be forgiven for missing the church of San Lorenzo in Panisperna, for it is hidden behind a wall! San Lorenzo was an incredibly popular saint, and, by all accounts, his fame was well deserved. The location of San Lorenzo's martyrdom is said to be at San Lorenzo in Panisperna, and the 'oven of San Lorenzo' is located below the church

Rick Bessey
Feb 262 min read


Santa Maria Maggiore - Wednesday, First Week of Lent
Santa Maria Maggiore is located on the Esquiline Hill, just south of the Termini train station. The basilica dominates the hill and dominates the surrounding area; it is a massive, solid, structure. The structure that the viewer sees today - while heavily embellished, dates from the founding of the basilica in the early 400's! The most likely date places the construction of the church in the papacy of Sixtus III, 432-440. This church truly is a Roman Basilica.

Rick Bessey
Feb 253 min read


Sant'Anastasia al Palatino - Tuesday, First Week of Lent
Sant'Anastasia is a church in the heart of ancient Rome. It sits at the western end of the Circus Maximus within an easy walk of the Tiber River further west, and the Roman Forum to the east. It is at the foot of the Palatine Hill, which gives it the appellation, 'al Palatino'. Founded in the early 300's, it was an important church in the early days of the church in Rome. In fact, for centuries Lent began here, with the Pope himself applying the ashes to the faithful.

Rick Bessey
Feb 242 min read


San Pietro in Vincoli - Monday, First Week of Lent
San Pietro in Vincoli houses the Moses of Michelangelo, a seated figure that sits at a height of over 11 feet and is carved on the same scale as his David. The name of the church, Saint Peter in Chains, refers to the links that held Peter during his imprisonment which are displayed under the altar.

Rick Bessey
Feb 232 min read


Saint John Lateran - Sunday, First Week of Lent
On the first Sunday of Lent, we visit the Cathedral of Rome, San Giovanni in Laterano. Dedicated in 324 by Pope Sylvester I, this church is the seat of the Bishop of Rome and sits on land dedicated by Constantine.

Rick Bessey
Feb 223 min read


Sant'Agostino - Saturday, Week of Ash Wednesday
Just steps from Piazza Navona lies Sant’Agostino, a Renaissance masterpiece built with travertine scavenged from the Colosseum. This church is a study in classical proportion, mirroring Alberti’s work in Florence while directly echoing the Pantheon’s famous inscription. Inside, you will find Caravaggio’s stir-causing Madonna of Loreto, Raphael’s Michelangelo-inspired Prophet Isaiah, and the tomb of Santa Monica. Join me as we explore this station church where high art meet

Rick Bessey
Feb 213 min read


Santi Giovanni e Paolo - Friday, Week of Ash Wednesday
The church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo is a highlight of the Lenten station churches, sitting directly atop ancient Roman homes. Walking up the Clivus Scauri under medieval brick buttresses, visitors can enter the Case Romane to see original wall paintings before stepping into the "wedding church" above. With its Pantheon-style coffered ceiling and exquisite marble floors, this basilica offers a stunning look at how the Rome of the Church was built upon the Rome of Antiquity.

Rick Bessey
Feb 202 min read


San Giorgio al Velabro - Thursday, Week of Ash Wednesday
San Giorgio al Velabro is a hidden gem tucked behind the Arch of Janus and near the site where Romulus and Remus were said to have washed ashore. This ancient church features a fascinating interior with mismatched columns repurposed from Roman buildings and a beautiful fresco of St. George. Located near the Arch of the Moneychangers, the church survived a significant mafia car bomb in the 1990s. Join me as we explore the deep layers of history in this quiet Roman piazza.

Rick Bessey
Feb 191 min read


Santa Sabina - Ash Wednesday
Santa Sabina, completed in 432 on the Aventine Hill, perfectly bridges the Rome of Antiquity with the Rome of the Church. This magnificent basilica features classic Roman brickwork and Corinthian columns reminiscent of the Roman Forum. Built over the home of the martyr Saint Sabina, the church is a masterful example of early Christian architecture. Join me as we explore this ancient site, its history, and the beautiful park overlooking the Tiber and St. Peter’s.

Rick Bessey
Feb 182 min read


The Lenten Churches of Rome
Rome is filled with churches, but which are the most "important"? I am re-releasing my series on the Lenten station churches of Rome—one for each day of Lent where the Pope would historically celebrate Mass. Formalized by Pope Gregory the Great around 600 AD, this practice has continued for centuries. This project has been years in the making as I add new churches annually. I have now completed 33 of the 40 posts exploring the fascinating history of these sacred sites.

Rick Bessey
Feb 162 min read
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