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San Clemente - Monday, Second Week of Lent


A view from the central fountain within the quadriporticus, looking toward the 12th-century facade of the Basilica di San Clemente.  The image captures the elegant arches of the colonnaded courtyard and the Romanesque bell tower to the left, highlighting the layers of the medieval structure built atop earlier ancient Roman foundations.

Within an easy walk of the Colosseum you will find the Basilica of San Clemente, a basilica which embodies all the layers of history in Rome. If you do not know what you are looking for, it would be easy to miss this fascinating church. The entrance to the church is through a portico that is walled on the outside, and, from the outside, it is a very plain wall at that.


But this building has literal layers of history:

  • The lower level consists of the remains of buildings from the Roman Imperial period. This level exists as a result of the building program following the great fire of Nero, in AD 64.

  • The middle level consists of the remains of the earliest church, which was likely established during the time of St. Jerome, or about AD 400. This church fell into disuse by 1100.

  • The upper level is the current church. It has undergone extensive renovations, but much of the ancient church remains.

It should be pointed out that you can actually visit all these levels of the basilica! Excavations and preservations have turned this church into quite an experience, allowing you to understand the complexities and history of what is modern Rome!


Among the splendors of the Basilica of San Clemente is the beautiful floor, a style of mosaic which is called Cosmatesque. Notice also the beautiful mosaic of the apse, a vine symbolizing the living church. The gold work echoes the earlier Byzantine moscaicists.


A low-angle view of the intricate 12th-century Cosmatesque mosaic floor in the Basilica di San Clemente.  The perspective highlights the geometric patterns of porphyry, serpentine, and white marble circles and interlacing bands that lead toward the high altar and the golden apse mosaic in the background.

A close-up of the golden 12th-century apse mosaic featuring a central crucifix adorned with twelve white doves representing the Apostles.  From the base of the cross, elaborate acanthus scrolls spiral outward, filled with detailed figures of saints, animals, and everyday Roman life, symbolizing the vine of life.  The Hand of God reaches down from a rainbow-hued firmament at the very top of the dome, while a row of twelve lambs representing the disciples walks toward the Lamb of God at the base of the scene.  The ciborium, or canopy over the high altar, is partially visible in the foreground.

The renovations of the basilica are outstanding and the visitor has the ability to explore the other levels of the church. The church has an incredibly navigable and useful website, where they showcase all the work that has been done to make this church accessible and encourage visits. Take the time to explore this amazing site, so close to the Colosseum and the center of Rome.


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P.S. Ever get confused by the inscriptions you see in Rome?


I created a free, 1-page "5-Minute Decoder" that unlocks 90% of the phrases you'll see on monuments. It's the perfect tool to go from a tourist to an insider.


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