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San Pietro in Vincoli - Monday, First Week of Lent

Updated: Feb 24

San Pietro in Vincoli - in English, St. Peter in Chains - is a fascinating place. From the piazza outside it is difficult to recognize as a church; it appears to be piazza with a colonnade. The interior is unmistakably a church, with its central nave and columns. Nevertheless, its appearance is relatively unremarkable. However, there are some remarkable things about this church that put it high on the list of churches to visit in Rome. And its proximity to the Colosseum - a third of the distance between the Lincoln Memorial and Washington Monument in Washington DC - surely moves it up on the must-see sights.


Exterior view of San Pietro in Vincoli featuring the 15th-century Renaissance portico.  The facade shows a five-arched arcade with brickwork and stone columns that contrast with the simpler structure behind it.

San Pietro in Vincoli houses the Moses of Michelangelo. Although not as tall as Michelangelo's David, the seated figure sits at a height of over 11 feet, and is carved on the same scale. The hands that hold the beard of Moses are the same hands of the David, and the mass of folds that make up his garment recall those of the Pieta in Saint Peter's. Like all of Rome, the church can get crowded during the height of the tourist season in summer, but in the off-season months you can spend time virtually alone in front of this true masterpiece.


Interior view of the wide central nave of San Pietro in Vincoli.  The space is flanked by two rows of twenty fluted Doric columns, salvaged from ancient Roman buildings, leading toward the high altar and coffered ceiling.

Moses was intended as a sculpture to adorn the tomb of Pope Julius II, the formidable Pope of the early Renaissance in Rome. He was Pope during the time of Columbus, he brought Michelangelo to Rome and hired him to paint the Sistine Ceiling, and he died the same year Martin Luther nailed his theses to the door of the church in Wittenberg. The Pope is interred here in this church, for it was his church before he became Pope.


Side profile of Michelangelo’s marble sculpture of Moses, part of the tomb of Pope Julius II.  The view highlights the muscular detail of the arm, the flowing texture of the long beard, and the tablets of the law held under the arm.

The name of the church, Saint Peter in Chains, refers to the chains that held Peter during his imprisonment in Rome. The links of these chains are displayed under the altar, and versions of the story hold that the chain is actually composed of the links of chains from when Peter was imprisoned in Jerusalem, also. When the links from Jerusalem were brought to Rome and placed in proximity to those from his Roman imprisonment, the two actually fused, resulting in the chain seen today.


A close-up of the bronze and glass reliquary situated beneath the high altar.  Inside the illuminated case are the iron chains traditionally believed to have bound Saint Peter during his imprisonment in Jerusalem and Rome.

This is one of the more accessible churches to the casual visitor of Rome, and I would encourage adding this to the list of one's visits to Rome.

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P.S. Ever get confused by the inscriptions you see in Rome?


I created a free, 1-page "5-Minute Decoder" that unlocks 90% of the phrases you'll see on monuments. It's the perfect tool to go from a tourist to an insider.


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