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Walkabout Wednesday: Temple of Hadrian
You will find the ruins of ancient Rome throughout the city. One reason is that re-use has preserved many of the magnificent structures of Imperial Rome. The Temple of Hadrian is a fascinating example of this. Although the structure as a whole no longer stands, you can easily see the wonder of the building, for the large columns and the entablature survive in a modern building.
The remaining wall of the Temple of Hadrian sits in its own Piazza, so there is plenty of time t

Rick Bessey
Jul 291 min read


Ancient Tuesday: Castel Sant'Angelo or the Mausoleum of Hadrian
The Castel Sant'Angelo, or Mausoleum of Hadrian, is a large, circular structure on the Tiber River, visible from St. Peter's Basilica. Originally Hadrian's mausoleum, its solid construction made it an ideal papal fortress, connected by a visible passage to St. Peter's. It also served as a prison, holding Caterina Sforza and the fictional Mario Cavaradossi from Puccini's Tosca.

Rick Bessey
Jul 282 min read


Masterpiece Monday: The Brancacci Chapel
The Brancacci Chapel is a magnificent place to understand Renaissance painting, where Michelangelo himself studied. Revolutionary artist Masaccio created early Renaissance art here, sharing work with Masolino, whose International/Gothic style provides immediate juxtaposition. The frescoes, focusing on St. Peter's life, include "The Tribute Money." Located in Florence's Oltrarno, it's a must-see if open.

Rick Bessey
Jul 272 min read


Pilgrimage Sunday: St. Paul Outside the Walls
The Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls (San Paolo fuori le Mura) is the final resting place of St. Paul. The earliest structure over his burial site was created under Constantine in 324, and the church was rebuilt multiple times, including after a devastating fire in 1823. Decorations of Paul's life are throughout this, Rome's second largest church.

Rick Bessey
Jul 261 min read


Saints and Relics Saturday: St. Dominic and the Devil's Stone in Santa Sabina
On Rome's Aventine Hill, the church of Santa Sabina holds a large rock. Legend says the Devil, angered by St. Dominic's prayers, threw it at him, missing. The rock remains, with holes from the Devil's talons visible. The church grounds also feature a beautiful park with views from the parapet.

Rick Bessey
Jul 251 min read


Churches Friday: Santa Maria degli Angeli
Michelangelo repurposed the ruins of Emperor Diocletian's baths into the church Santa Maria degli Angeli, where the massive scale of ancient structures is layered into a beautiful basilica. The Termini train station, named for "baths," is across the street, and Piazza della Repubblica, a common filming scene, is directly outside.

Rick Bessey
Jul 241 min read


Curiosa Thursday: Palazzo Zuccari
Just down the street from the Spanish Steps is this fabulous doorway of the Palazzo Zuccari. Art historians refer to the period immediately after the High Renaissance as the Mannerist period (1520-1600). The artwork of this period is often referred to as surprising, peculiar, or unexpected, and the doorway certainly embodies that. Today the building houses a library for art historians.

Rick Bessey
Jul 231 min read


Walkabout Wednesday: Spanish Steps
The Spanish Steps in Rome lead from Piazza di Spagna, home to a Bernini fountain and the Spanish Embassy, to the Trinità dei Monti church with its Roman obelisk. This area, once home to poet Yeats, offers city views and upscale shopping. Visitors should note that sitting on the steps is prohibited.

Rick Bessey
Jul 221 min read


Ancient Tuesday: Baths of Caracalla
A visit to the Baths of Caracalla, though in ruins, reveals the immense scale of Roman construction and its core brickwork. Constructed in the early 200s AD, these baths were used until 500 AD and served as a place for bathing, exercise, relaxation, and possibly included a library. The site is easily accessible by taxi or bus.

Rick Bessey
Jul 211 min read


Pilgrimage Sunday: Santa Maria Maggiore
Santa Maria Maggiore holds sway on the Esquiline Hill, a grand building set apart by its piazza and hill. Legend says Pope Liberius received a vision in 358 to build a church where snow falls, and a miracle snow did take place, leading to this church dedicated to Mary. Inside the church is the manger of Christ. The piazza also has a large taxi
St. Lawrence (Lorenzo, in Italian), was a deacon of the church who was killed on August 10, 258 in the Roman persecutions under the

Rick Bessey
Jul 191 min read


Pilgrimage Sunday: San Sebastiano fuori le Mura
The Basilica of San Sebastiano fuori le Mura sits on the Ancient Appian Way, Rome's major north-south road. Saint Sebastian, an early martyr, was killed by being tied to a tree and shot with arrows, a popular image in art. This church, one of Rome's oldest, was established under Constantine but heavily renovated. Its location near the catacombs and Appian Way makes it a worthwhile stop outside the city.

Rick Bessey
Jul 121 min read
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