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Churches Friday: Santa Maria in Aracoeli
The church Santa Maria in Aracoeli on the Capitoline Hill has a fascinating foundation story. Emperor Augustus had a vision of a woman presenting a child on an altar, leading him to build the "altar of heaven," or "ara coeli," which names the church. Its nave columns are from ancient ruins, one noted "from the chambers of Augustus." The 124 marble steps were added after the Black Death of 1348.

Rick Bessey
Jul 17, 20251 min read


Curiosa Thursday: EUR - Mussolini's Rome
The EUR district takes visitors outside central Rome to a virtually deserted area. Planned by Mussolini in the 1930s for the 1942 World's Fair, its architecture reflects the period, making one feel stepped back in time. It is a place to immerse oneself in stark WWII architecture.

Rick Bessey
Jul 16, 20251 min read


Walkabout Wednesday: The Capitoline Hill
The Capitoline Hill, ancient Rome's most sacred space with the Temple of Jupiter, is now a beautiful piazza designed by Michelangelo, housing the Capitoline Museums. Its approach features a gentle staircase and statues of Castor and Pollux. In the center is a reproduction of Marcus Aurelius's equestrian statue. Behind the buildings are outstanding views of the Roman Forum.

Rick Bessey
Jul 15, 20251 min read


Fritti and San Miniato
The morning routine is one of the simplest joys about being in Italy. Nearly every block contains a cafe, known as a bar, in Italian,...

Rick Bessey
Jul 15, 20258 min read


Ancient Tuesday: The Column of Trajan
It is amazing that the Column of Trajan, a testament to Emperor Trajan's military exploits (98-117 AD), still stands. This intricately carved spiral column was once part of a large complex between two libraries, allowing scenes to be viewed while walking through surrounding buildings. It contains a central staircase, though closed to the public. The area offers reasonable places to eat.

Rick Bessey
Jul 14, 20251 min read


Masterpiece Monday: Bernini's Apollo and Daphne
Bernini, a master of Baroque sculpture, has a presence felt throughout Rome. The Borghese Gallery holds his Apollo and Daphne, a myth codified by Ovid, depicting Daphne's transformation into a laurel tree while pursued by Apollo. This work, meant to be seen from all angles, shows various stages of transformation.
This work was meant to be seen from all angles, and as you walk around the work, you see the vari

Rick Bessey
Jul 13, 20251 min read


Pilgrimage Sunday: San Sebastiano fuori le Mura
The Basilica of San Sebastiano fuori le Mura sits on the Ancient Appian Way, Rome's major north-south road. Saint Sebastian, an early martyr, was killed by being tied to a tree and shot with arrows, a popular image in art. This church, one of Rome's oldest, was established under Constantine but heavily renovated. Its location near the catacombs and Appian Way makes it a worthwhile stop outside the city.

Rick Bessey
Jul 12, 20251 min read


Saints and Relics Saturday: The Chains of St. Peter
The Church of Saint Peter in Chains contains, as the name suggests, the chains that held Peter when he was imprisoned in Rome. They are prominently displayed under the altar.
The story about the chains can be a bit confusing. At its core, the chain that held St. Peter was divided at some point in its history, with half going to Jerusalem. It was returned to Rome, however, and upon being placed with the other half, to two pieces joined to become one.

Rick Bessey
Jul 11, 20251 min read


Churches Friday: San Lorenzo, Florence
The Basilica of San Lorenzo in Florence is the best representation of the hallmarks of Renaissance architecture, and, as such, makes it the most beautiful church in all of Italy.
When you enter the church you immediately understand what Renaissance architecture is. The church was designed by the architect Brunelleschi, who traveled to Rome to study the ancient structures. He then brought that style back to Florence.

Rick Bessey
Jul 10, 20251 min read


Curiosa Thursday: Pope Joan
Pope Joan is a female Pope who is said to have served from 855-857, though her story did not gain prominence until the late 1200s, and,...

Rick Bessey
Jul 9, 20251 min read


Walkabout Wednesday: Il Fontanone
Overlooking Trastevere is the beautiful Fontanone - the Big Fountain. The fountain is the counterpart to the Trevi Fountain; both mark the end points of Roman acqueducts.
Take the time to enjoy the view, then walk down the steps and enjoy a beautiful dinner at any of a number of great restauraunts in Trastevere.

Rick Bessey
Jul 8, 20251 min read


Ancient Tuesday: Pyramide, or Tomb of Caius Cestius
Just off the city center is a large, gleaming pyramid. This is the tomb of Caius Cestius and it was constructed between 18 and 12 BC. At the time of its construction, it would have been in an open area; the city had not yet spread to this point. The Roman walls constructed under Marcus Aurelius in the 270s actually used this pyramid as part of the walls.
If you travel on the subway in Rome, Pryamide is a subway stop, and the stop is connected to Rome's secondary train stat

Rick Bessey
Jul 7, 20251 min read


Masterpiece Monday: Raphael's Isaiah
Raphael's Isaiah is a powerful fresco tucked inside Sant'Agostino near Piazza Navona. This Renaissance version of the prophet is inspired by the works of Michelango.

Rick Bessey
Jul 6, 20251 min read


Pilgrimage Sunday: San Lorenzo fuori le Mura
The pilgrimage church of San Lorenzo fuori le Mura is dedicated to the third of Rome's great martyrs, after Peter and Paul, and, as the name suggests, fuoir le mura, it sits outside of the former city walls.
St. Lawrence (Lorenzo, in Italian), was a deacon of the church who was killed on August 10, 258 in the Roman persecutions under the Emperor Valerian.

Rick Bessey
Jul 5, 20251 min read


Saints and Relics Saturday: The Head of John the Baptist
The Basilica of San Silvestro in Capite claims to have the head of John the Baptist.

Rick Bessey
Jul 4, 20251 min read


Churches Friday: Sant'Agostino
The church of San Agostino, Rome

Rick Bessey
Jul 4, 20252 min read


Curiosa Thursday: The Elephant and the Obelisk
The sculpture by Bernini of the Elephant and the Obelisk.

Rick Bessey
Jul 3, 20251 min read


Walkabout Wednesday: The Statues on Ponte Sant'Angelo
In front of the Castel Sant'Angelo, in view of the dome of St. Peter's Basilica, the Ponte Sant'Angelo bridge crosses the Tiber. (The...

Rick Bessey
Jul 2, 20251 min read


Ancient Tuesday: Ara Pacis Augustae
The religion of ancient Rome called for animal sacrifice on an altar. To protect the priest from seeing any bad omens, the altar was...

Rick Bessey
Jul 1, 20251 min read


Masterpiece Monday: Caravaggio’s Caparelli Chapel and the Calling of Saint Matthew
In the beautiful Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesci, just a block from Piazza Navona, is a chapel containing three Caravaggio...

Rick Bessey
Jun 30, 20251 min read
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