So You're Staying in Monti - Part Two

Now that you have the history of Monti from Staying in Monti - Part One, let's orient you to the modern neighborhood..

I am going to focus on the Piazza della Madonna dei Monti and the streets immediately surrounding it.

The Piazza della Madonna dei Monti contains the Fountain of the Catechumens, and dates from the late 1500s. If you have been to Santa Maria in Trastevere, you have seen the inspiration for this fountain. As with any piazza in Rome, it can be a lively gathering place, and the restaurant in the Piazza is a nice place to get a treat or coffee and relax.

The piazza is bound by two roughly north-south streets, the Via dei Serpenti and the Via del Boschetto. As you stand on the Via dei Serpenti at the corner of Via Baccina, you will look straight to the Colosseum! The east-west street is Via Baccina, although this changes names as it passes through the piazza, exiting as the Via degli Zingari. The north-south streets offer a large variety of restaurants, coffee shops, and opportunities to shop. Despite the fact that you are within sight of the Colosseum, the area is not terribly geared toward tourists and has a very local feel.

If you are looking for something to eat or drink, or perhaps want to purchase some wine for an evening treat on your hotel balcony, you should feel comfortable walking up Via dei Serpenti to Via Panisperna, and returning on the parallel street, Via del Boschetto. This is a delightful part of the city and greenery covers the buildings. I will discuss some of the places that I have first hand knowledge about, but don't hesitate to stop in any shop that calls to you.

Food

• Pasta Imperiale: So you have landed in Rome, passed through customs, taken the train (or taxi) from the airport, and checked into your hotel. You realize you are starving! Pasta Imperiale is the place to go! Located on Via del Boschetto, this is a no frills delicious pasta place within an exceptionally easy walk from the Piazza della Madonna dei Monti. The interior is very small, and as the name suggests, they only offer pasta. They provide a handful of pastas and a handful of sauces . The process is easy; pick one pasta and one sauce! It couldn't be easier when you just want something to eat. I HIGHLY recommend the cacio e pepe! (Via del Boschetto, 112)

• al42 by Pasta Chef rione Monti: I have also heard exceptionally good things about another pasta restaurant on Via Baccina, al42 by Pasta Chef rione Monti. (The 42 refers to the street number.) Regrettably, I have not personally visited this spot, but if your hotel is on Via Baccina, this is another strong possibility. (Via Baccina, 42)

• Mercato Rionale: Also on Via Baccina there is a grocery store! If you intend to carry a backpack around, it may be worthwhile to stop in and get some provisions that will offer you quick energy throughout the day. Rome is full of pizza places, but sometimes it is just perfect to be able to sit in a piazza and snack on something you have readily available. This store has the feel of a co-op, and there are plenty of good things inside. (Via Baccina, 36)

It has been said that Via del Boschetto has the densest population of restaurants in the city of Rome! That is quite a claim, but the fact remains - there are plenty of restaurants to choose from right in the neighborhood!

Coffee

In the morning you will want to participate in the most enjoyable ritual that you can take part of when visiting Italy - the morning coffee. Traditionally, coffee is simply an espresso, drunk while standing at the bar. For the citizens of Rome this can be a very brief experience. For the traveler it can be somewhat hectic and a bit of a mystery. Don't be daunted if they seem too busy to cater to you. It is a very businesslike atmosphere. But be brave and be persistent. It will pay off.

Here is the key to the process; you pay before ordering your coffee. This little step kicks off the whole process. The cashier will give you your receipt which you present to the barista. The barista will look at your receipt, tear it, and lay it down on the counter with the appropriate number of saucers. Once the espresso is made, it will be set on your saucer and you are all set! This process is repeated dozens of times in the morning, and if they seem to pay you no mind, it is because this is muscle memory, both for the patrons and the staff. It is amazing to take part in this.

You will also order your morning pastry at this time. This can be counter-intuitive to the newly arrived. How do you know what you want if are standing at the cashier stand just inside the door? Are you really supposed to go in, peer around the bodies at the bar, then return to the cassa to order and pay? This seems to be very inefficient to a first time visitor in Rome.

Here is my suggestion: order a cornetto and a coffee. A cornetto is the Italian version of a croissant. I make this suggestion because this is the least intimidating order for your first time. Sometimes you do not have the luxury (because of the crowd) to peruse the pastries and ask which ones have cream, for example, and which are filled with jam. A basic coffee and croissant is fairly universal and will provide the least opportunity for confusion. And, not for nothing, you don't need a lot of Italian to say, "Un cornetto ed un caffe!"

One more note about tables and lingering. If you stand at the bar you are expected to drink your coffee quickly and make way for the others. (When you are done, simply leave your coffee cup on the saucer and say, grazie.) If there are tables outside you are welcome to take your coffee out there. But do not stand at the bar and plan your day. The bar is for a quick shot!

• La Bottega del Caffe: The restaurant at the Piazza dei Madonna del Monti is a perfectly fine place to grab a coffee. If the weather is nice you can take it outside and enjoy the morning. This is also a nice place to end the day when you want something a little sweet to close out a busy day of sightseeing! (Piazza della Madonna dei Monti, 5)

• Antico Caffe' del Brasile: I have enjoyed on several occasions the Antico Caffe'del Brasile on Via dei Serpenti. They have tables in the back in case you do want to sit down and observe the morning routine. (Via dei Serpenti, 23)

Wine

Needless to say, you can find wine all over the city, and there are plenty of shops in this part of Rome!

• Antico Forno Serpenti: I have personally purchased wine at a shop on the corner of Via dei Serpenti and Via Panisperna. They have a fine selection at what seem to be reasonable prices. You can also get food and sweets here! (Take a look at their website, http://www.anticofornoaiserpenti.it/.) Again, my perception of this area is that, despite the hotels and proximity to the Colosseum, the shops cater to the local clientele. (Via dei Serpente 122/123)

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