San Nicola in Carcere - Saturday, Fourth Week of Lent

For our visit to San Nicola in Carcere we head towards the Tiber River from the Piazza Venezia, just past the Theater of Marcellus. When you look at the structure, you can see that parts of ancient buildings appear to be embedded within it. The church is, in fact, built by re-using the remains of ancient Roman temples. These temples date back to the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC, in the time of the Roman Republic, well before the Roman Empire.

The three structures used to support and create the church are the Temple of Janus, the Temple of Juno Sospita, and the Temple of Spes (Hope). The facade dates to the Late Renaissance (1599 - Giocamo della Porta), but it is the side walls that exhibit the ancient story. Like the temple of Hadrian, near the Trevi fountain, massive fluted columns are integrated directly into the exterior masonry. Are the columns embedded in the masonry of the building? Or is the masonry of the building squeezing out through the columns?

The "Carcere" (prison) in the name refers to a medieval legend that the site was once a Roman jail. There, are, in fact narrow subterranean passages beneath the church. However, these lower levels are actually the foundations and narrow alleys that separated the three temples! Walking through what is the crypt today, you are literally walking at the ground level of the Roman Republic, surrounded by the massive tufa blocks that have supported this neighborhood for over two thousand years.

There are two other fascinating items to note.

The church is dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Bari, the 4th-century bishop who inspired the legend of Santa Claus. Yes! THAT Saint Nick. His cult was particularly strong among the Greek population that lived in this district during the early Middle Ages.

Inside the church, if you look closely, you will see that the the columns lining the nave are actually a collection of different columns. When you wonder - as you often will in Rome - "What happened to the ancient Roman buildings? Why are they all in ruin?", this church is a prime example. The columns are "spolia" - spoils taken from other ancient ancient buildings. No two are exactly alike in height or marble type. It is fascinating to see the remnants of different buildings gathered here in one place.

This site is perhaps the most literal example of historical layering in the city and is well worth the visit for anyone trying to understand how Rome was re-used over the years.

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San Nicola in Carcere, Google Maps

San Nicola in Carcere, Google Street View

Basilica Website

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