San Lorenzo Fuori Le Mura - Sunday, Third Week of Lent
- Rick Bessey
- Mar 8
- 2 min read
Updated: Mar 9
On this day we return to San Lorenzo (Saint Lawrence), one of seven pilgrimage churches of Rome, which were churches established for incoming pilgrims as "the" seven churches to visit on a pilgrimage. St. Laurence was a deacon of the church, an ally and associate to the pope, and was immensely popular in Rome. We have already visited the place of his martyrdom in the Church of San Lorenzo in Panisperna where the grill on which he was martyred is contained. San Lorenzo Fuori Le Mura is the final resting place of Saint Lawrence.
The basilica is set on a piazza at a very wide intersection of Via Tiburtina just north-east of the Termini train station. Originally located, as the name suggests "outside the walls" it is located on the site of ancient catacombs. The land use has been unchanged for centuries and currently the "Communal Monumental Cemetery of Campo Verano" occupies the space surrounding the church. It seems likely that Saint Lawrence was buried in the catacombs beyond the walls, and a church erected over his burial place.
The church itself is fronted with a lovely portico, leading into a basilica type church. The plain brick nave of the church is visible over the portico; before WWII this facade was beautiful decorated with images of saints between the windows and an image of Christ in a mandorla in the central position. In July of 1943, however, the church was heavily damaged, and these images were not replaced.
Once inside the visitor is met with a beautiful cosmatesque floor contains beautiful porphyry stones and rich greens. Above, the timber roof creates a rich, dark feeling that is offset by the windows high in the nave. Overall, although containing dark elements, the church is very open and airy.
About two thirds down the nave there is an arch that breaks the flow of the ceiling separating the area of the altar from the main portion of the nave. The mosaics over this arch depict Pope Pelagius I (Pope, 556-561) presenting a model of the church that he built - this church - to Christ. He is accompanied by St. Laurence and other saints, who are helpfully named in the mosaics.
Past the dividing arch, the floor splits, the top half continuing the space of the church, and the lower half leads to the crypt and the burial place of St. Laurence.
This ancient church contains much to be admired, especially to followers of the immensely popular St. Laurence. Whether you are a history enthusiast, a devout pilgrim, or simply a curious traveler, a visit to San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura promises an enriching experience.
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San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura, Google Maps
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