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Walkabout Wednesday: Temple of Hadrian
You will find the ruins of ancient Rome throughout the city. One reason is that re-use has preserved many of the magnificent structures of Imperial Rome. The Temple of Hadrian is a fascinating example of this. Although the structure as a whole no longer stands, you can easily see the wonder of the building, for the large columns and the entablature survive in a modern building.
The remaining wall of the Temple of Hadrian sits in its own Piazza, so there is plenty of time t

Rick Bessey
Jul 301 min read


Churches Friday: Santa Maria degli Angeli
Michelangelo repurposed the ruins of Emperor Diocletian's baths into the church Santa Maria degli Angeli, where the massive scale of ancient structures is layered into a beautiful basilica. The Termini train station, named for "baths," is across the street, and Piazza della Repubblica, a common filming scene, is directly outside.

Rick Bessey
Jul 251 min read


Saints and Relics Saturday: St. Valentine, Santa Maria in Cosmedin
The head of St. Valentine rests in the church, Santa Maria in Cosmedin, with his name visible on the skull. The church is better known for the Bocca della Verità, or "Mouth of Truth," a manhole-sized marble face made famous in the movie Roman Holiday. Legend says it bites the hand of anyone who tells a lie.

Rick Bessey
Jul 191 min read


Churches Friday: Santa Maria in Aracoeli
The church Santa Maria in Aracoeli on the Capitoline Hill has a fascinating foundation story. Emperor Augustus had a vision of a woman presenting a child on an altar, leading him to build the "altar of heaven," or "ara coeli," which names the church. Its nave columns are from ancient ruins, one noted "from the chambers of Augustus." The 124 marble steps were added after the Black Death of 1348.

Rick Bessey
Jul 181 min read


Walkabout Wednesday: The Capitoline Hill
The Capitoline Hill, ancient Rome's most sacred space with the Temple of Jupiter, is now a beautiful piazza designed by Michelangelo, housing the Capitoline Museums. Its approach features a gentle staircase and statues of Castor and Pollux. In the center is a reproduction of Marcus Aurelius's equestrian statue. Behind the buildings are outstanding views of the Roman Forum.

Rick Bessey
Jul 161 min read


Ancient Tuesday: The Column of Trajan
It is amazing that the Column of Trajan, a testament to Emperor Trajan's military exploits (98-117 AD), still stands. This intricately carved spiral column was once part of a large complex between two libraries, allowing scenes to be viewed while walking through surrounding buildings. It contains a central staircase, though closed to the public. The area offers reasonable places to eat.

Rick Bessey
Jul 151 min read


Pilgrimage Sunday: San Sebastiano fuori le Mura
The Basilica of San Sebastiano fuori le Mura sits on the Ancient Appian Way, Rome's major north-south road. Saint Sebastian, an early martyr, was killed by being tied to a tree and shot with arrows, a popular image in art. This church, one of Rome's oldest, was established under Constantine but heavily renovated. Its location near the catacombs and Appian Way makes it a worthwhile stop outside the city.

Rick Bessey
Jul 131 min read


Ancient Tuesday: Pyramide, or Tomb of Caius Cestius
Just off the city center is a large, gleaming pyramid. This is the tomb of Caius Cestius and it was constructed between 18 and 12 BC. At the time of its construction, it would have been in an open area; the city had not yet spread to this point. The Roman walls constructed under Marcus Aurelius in the 270s actually used this pyramid as part of the walls.
If you travel on the subway in Rome, Pryamide is a subway stop, and the stop is connected to Rome's secondary train stat

Rick Bessey
Jul 81 min read


Ancient Tuesday: Ara Pacis Augustae
The religion of ancient Rome called for animal sacrifice on an altar. To protect the priest from seeing any bad omens, the altar was...

Rick Bessey
Jul 11 min read


Ancient Tuesday: The Theater of Marcellus
The theater of Marcellus is an ancient theater (as the name suggests) that is currently in use as a modern apartment building. The...

Rick Bessey
Jun 241 min read


Ancient Tuesday: Arch of Janus
The Arch of Janus is a four-sided structure located near the Tiber River, close to where Romulus and Remus reportedly washed ashore. Adjacent to it is the church of San Giorgio al Velabro. While named for the two-faced god Janus, there is no historical connection to the deity.

Rick Bessey
Jun 171 min read
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